Areas

Viola Falls

DescriptionViola Falls, along with Hillyer & Wildcat Falls, has one of the longest and most grueling approaches in the Catskills. That being said, it also has some of the most reliable ice and offers a chance to climb away from the crowds. Viola falls offers a couple of nice pitches of ice along with a handful of variations.
DirectionsPark at the pulloff for Moore's Wall. Don't park in the small pulloff between the guardrails when there is snow on the ground - you can be ticketed or towed. You may have to park well above or below the area and walk in along the road.
ApproachOne of the longest and most strenuous approaches in the Catskills. Plan on about 45 mins to 1 hour. Locate Hillyer/Viola Ravine on the South side of Route 23A. The Ravine begins on the right (West) side of Moore's wall. Hike up the rough terrain of the ravine until it forks. Hillyer falls is on the left and Viola falls is on the right. The first pitch should be visible shortly after the fork. There are alternative approaches including the Long Path and bushwacking up the steep hill to the left of Moore's Wall. Please add details here if you have them.
Parking Location42.176876, -74.053311
Current ConditionTHIN, Last Updated: 12-Feb-2012

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Routes at Viola Falls

Viola Falls Pitch 1, WI3
Choose your line up the left or right side of the falls.
Viola Falls Pitch 2, WI4
Climb the steeper left side or the more moderate right side.
Ice Spear, WI4 M6
Climb the intial ice bugle then move right to pull through a few overhanging rock moves to gain the free hanging pillar. Be careful when climbing around this hanger - the route earned it's namesake when it cut loose on the first ascent. Finish left on a few rock moves to the top.